"Just Rub a Couple Sticks Together..."

If only it was that easy to stay warm on your motorcycle in the winter, right?

If you're like me, you want to ride your motorcycle year-round; none of this parking your baby until spring with gas stabilizer in the tank to keep her from waking up cranky, a plug in the exhaust to keep out the mice, and a nice warm blanky so she knows you still love her even though you've set her aside for the warm, dry cab of your pickemup truck. Of course, you probably also have a strong aversion to shivering, turning blue, and the occasional finger, toe, or other cherished appendage dropping off due to frostbite.

Oklahoma sees its share of cold temperatures -- and more than its share of ice and freezing rain. When there's ice on the roads, leave your bike at home; otherwise, you can ride if you know how to stay warm ... even when it's as cold as the proverbial witch's tit.

While it might not be the Great White North, Oklahoma sees its share of cold temps. This is December 8th of last year ... the number in the lower right is the outdoor temp. Yeah, it does say 8 degrees.

Keep in mind that you're generating your own wind while riding (no, I'm not referring to the gaseous emanations resulting from that chili you ate the night before). The effect commonly known as the wind chill factor will drain the warmth from your body faster than Dracula drains the blood from pretty girls in their nightgowns. For example, if you're riding at 60 mph in 35 degree weather, it's going to seem like it's 17 (reference the chart below), so plan accordingly. (For more information on the effects of wind chill, the National Weather Service maintains a great website here.)

Don't forget the wind chill factor when planning your ride.

How long you plan to ride is also important when choosing between your motorcycle or the embarrassment of borrowing the wife's minivan. My commute to work is less than 15 minutes in duration, allowing me to ride when many of my friends who have an hour-long ride are forced to seek alternate means of transportation (i.e., a vehicle in which I will not wave back when we pass). When traveling in extreme temperatures, plan for more frequent stops. You need to get off the bike and move around to keep your blood circulating. Don't expect to be able to match the distances you covered when riding in more temperate months.

What type of bike you've chosen is also a factor. It's much easier for me to stay warm on my sport-touring bike than my dualsport, because on the sportbike I have all that plastic to hide behind and the fairing naturally directs all the engine heat up toward my body. A cruiser with no windscreen leaves your upper body completely exposed. Both a cruiser and a half-faired bike will leave your lower extremities to the wind's not-so-tender mercies.

Independence Pass, Colorado. 12,095 feet and a balmy 32 degrees.

Of course, the most important thing to consider is the gear you wear. While leather is excellent for blocking the wind, in my experience most textile (i.e., Cordura and the like) jackets and overpants are better insulated. Generally, textile gear also features waterproof liners. Trust me, the only thing worse than being cold on your motorcycle is being cold and wet. In extreme temperatures, wearing rain gear over your regular gear will also aid in blocking the wind. It goes without saying that you should dress in layers. I prefer natural wool undergarments: they breathe well, retain warmth even when wet, and I've never seen a sheep shivering. The current crop of high-tech synthetic materials are also good, but make sure you find something that breathes well. You want the sweat that you generate to pass back out through the garment; otherwise you've got a layer of damp air trapped against your skin, working against you.

Gloves should be well insulated, but not so thick and cumbersome that you can't work the controls. An advantage to most dualsport or adventure bikes is the handguards, which not only keep you from snapping fingers against tree limbs, but also block much of the wind. Gloves with a gauntlet will seal off the sleeves of your jacket, keeping cold air from finding your armpits.

A scarf or muffler is a must, not only for its insulating value, but in order to block cold air that might otherwise find its way under the chin of your helmet. I prefer a balaclava, which goes over my head, completely covers my lower face, and then tucks under the collar of my jacket. I bought mine years ago at a local Harley-Davidson shop and it claims to be made of "turtle fur" ... I don't even want to know what part of the turtle yields fur!

Today in Oklahoma, 22 degrees. Snow and ice on the ground present a challenge that'll definitely help keep you warm.

Most riders who spend a lot of time out in the cold wisely invest in electric warmth. Having used one for years, I can tell you that an electric vest is the ticket. Gerbing, Widder, or any other major brand will serve you well. I like the high, heated collar on my Widder vest, as it keeps the blood that pumps through the major arteries in my neck nice and toasty. The Widder also has electric sleeves that snap on and off. Though I own a set of the sleeves (as well as the gloves which connect to the sleeves), I've found that I rarely need them. If you maintain your body's core temperature by using the vest, your heart will keep sending warm blood out to your extremities. What happens with hypothermia is that the blood vessels in the extremities constrict in order to restrict blood flow and conserve body heat in the organs. This leads to frostbite, which is definitely not a good thing. Keep that warm blood pumping and you'll be fine.

The electric gloves I own (Widder) are thick and cumbersome, nearly impossible to ride with, so I don't use them. What I do swear by are heated grips. Though some manufacturers (BMW and Triumph come immediately to mind) offer heated grips on their bikes, they're generally an expensive option -- usually in the 200 dollar range. I've had good luck with the inexpensive filament type, the kind where the heating element is embedded in a mylar or plastic sheet that adheres to the handlebars, under the rubber grips. These generally cost only 25 or 30 dollars and are worth every penny. Wiring is straightforward and uncomplicated. Though the bars do tend to act as something of a heat-sink (especially on the clutch side), this type of heated grip delivers enough heat into the palm of your hand to keep you comfortable without having to resort to thick, unwieldy gloves. Don't get me wrong, the heated grips in which the heating element is embedded in the grip itself definitely perform better (I had a set on my Triumph Tiger a couple years ago and loved them) and are more durable (the exposed wires on the cheaper type eventually wear out), but in my opinion the benefits don't warrant the difference in cost.

Like any other electrical accessory you plan to install on your motorcycle, you'll need to compare the power requirements with the available wattage provided by your bike's alternator. The vest will require some sort of quick disconnect or DC outlet (I prefer the BMW-type sockets). Your wiring should be capable of carrying the necessary current without suffering a meltdown and should be fused. Switched power (power that is only on when the key to your bike is switched on) is always best; you don't want to find your battery dead some morning because you forgot to turn off your heated grips.

A BMW power outlet mounted in the fairing of my Kawasaki ZZR1200. Also note the hi/lo/off switch for my heated grips.

Another power outlet mounting option: this one is mounted in an aluminum plate near my passenger peg.

Yet another: this one is tucked away on the handlebars of my BMW Dakar.

The vest will require a power cord suited to the type of connection you've chosen. The cord will need a means of controlling the vest. While many riders prefer a thermostat, I've found that a simple on/off switch is sufficient. Typically, if it's cold enough to wear the vest, I've got it turned on all the time. If I get too warm, it's easy enough to switch the vest off for a few minutes.

Be sure and check the alternator output of your motorcycle before adding accessories. My CRF, for instance, doesn't have the wattage to power much.

Let me conclude with a few safety-related comments about riding in cold temperatures. Aside from the obvious danger of hypothermia and freezing off the family jewels, you should keep several other things in mind.

Those sticky tires that allowed you to drag pegs through the corners this past summer? They will take much, much longer to reach operating temperature in the cold. In fact, they will never perform as they did when it was warmer. Take it easy for the first couple of miles when you start, and even after your tires have warmed up, be careful of sliding. If road crews have been out recently scattering sand because of winter ice, be wary. Sometimes that stuff can linger on the road for weeks or longer, especially if we haven't had much rain.

Be prepared to have far more trouble with your helmet visor fogging up: invest in some anti-fog spray, peel-off strips, or a fog-free visor (one of the reasons I love my Scorpion helmet is its fog-free visor).

And last, but certainly not least, be extra vigilant when it comes to our 4-wheeled friends on Oklahoma's highways. Most people are too lazy in the winter to scrape all the ice from their windows or wait for their defroster to do its job (generally preferring to squint unsafely through a small hole they've chiseled in the ice), their own windows are fogging (especially side and rear windows), and they're probably paying even less attention to their driving than usual.

With the proper gear, attitude, and attention to safety, there's no reason you can't ride all year round. So what are you waiting for? Winter be damned, let's ride!